Erin really saved my Californian road trip, for which I will be
eternally grateful. However, she couldn’t save me completely. There had to be
some price to pay for my stupidity. I had intended to drive from LA to Vegas
over two days. I’d stop in Indio (so close to the annual music festival,
Coachella, but several months off-schedule – fuck, fuck, fuck – I’d love to
attend) for a night before driving the next day to Lake Havasu City. Here
I wanted to see London Bridge. I was really pissed at myself for missing this!
The earliest
iterations of this structure (50 AD to 410 AD) were built by the Romans out of
wood. They were destroyed by fires, floods and revolts, including the 60 AD
Boudican revolt. After the Romans left, the wooden structure remained the only
road crossing the Thames. William the Conqueror rebuilt the bridge several
times. The “Old” London Bridge, made of stone, was commissioned by Henry II and
took 33 years to build. This lasted from 1209 to 1831. Upon it were 200
buildings, including multi-story houses, shops and a chapel. In 1759, a single
“Great Arch” replaced two central arches to accommodate water-top
transportation, and the buildings were removed in 1761 to ease bridge-top
traffic. The “New” London Bridge was constructed 100 feet upstream from the
medieval site to accommodate growing traffic due to the Industrial Revolution.
This stood from 1831 to 1968. This iteration was sold in 1968 to American
entrepreneur Robert McCulloch for the sum of $2.46 million. It was dismantled
stone-by-stone and reassembled in Lake Havasu City, Arizona. (The Modern London
Bridge, built in 1973, still stands at time of writing in 2026.)
Five days ago, once I was certain Hertz wouldn’t give me the car, I
canceled my bookings in Indio and Lake Havasu City, booked a flight with Delta
from LA to Vegas, cried a little in my sleep, swallowed, and cut my losses. Instead of dropping Erin at LAX on Monday Feb
2 and driving on, she dropped us both at LAX. En route, we stopped for coffee
and snacks at Alana’s Coffee Roasters in Mar Vista. On the
flight, I was astonished to hear among the announcements that chewing tobacco was
not allowed; never before had I heard that form of tobacco singled out.









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