Unceded Land ~3~

 

On Tuesday morning, I checked out of the Mosser Hotel and took my bag to San Remo Hotel, closer to today’s embarkation point. They were kind enough to let me into my room before check-in time. Their hallways whiffed of an overnight ferry or small cruise ship – they were narrow and long, and many rooms lined them.

The staff were friendly and warm, providing a truly welcoming atmosphere. The room, on the other hand, was really small. There was virtually no place to put anything other than directly on the floor. I didn’t stay long, though. I wanted to find the port and take a stroll before my mid-afternoon departure. Finding everything where I’d expected it, I ambled leisurely along the water in Fisherman’s Wharf on the northern tip of San Francisco Peninsula. Among the attractions is Pier 39, upon which stand fantastic purveyors of all kinds of quintessential Americana. It took much resolve to resist spending.

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I wandered further westward along Jefferson Street, passing beneath SkyStar Wheel, of which I’d have a magnificent view later from across the water. I continued. This is clearly a tourist area. I passed yet another escape room – there are so many of those in these western states – and a Ripley’s Believe It Or Not. A little further on, I came across Capurro’s Restaurant, with its beautiful exterior. Diagonally across from this is the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park, and above that, Ghirardelli Square. I strolled around the square a little. I had intended to make it all the way to the Golden Gate Bridge – time and laziness changed my mind. Ultimately, I returned eastward and back to San Remo to rest a little. At 14:50, I headed back to the waterfront.

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I’d booked a trip to Alcatraz and was more than a little excited. In truth, I don’t really know why. I don’t have a particular interest in justice, jail breaks, the law or any other related topic. Perhaps it was the parallel to Robben Island in Cape Town, where Nelson Mandela spent much of his incarceration, that tickled me. Outbound departure was at 15:50. I didn’t look for the name of the vessel, but the agency running the tours is called Alcatraz City Cruises. 

Arriving on the island, a sign welcomed us to Indian Land. An announcement had been made on the vessel about the claim over the island. Google AI gave me this.

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The modern land claim over Alcatraz Island is primarily based on a 19th-century treaty that allowed Native Americans to reclaim surplus federal property. While the island is currently managed as a national park, its status as "Indian Land" remains a deeply significant cultural and political concept. 

Wikipedia +2

The Legal Basis: Treaty of Fort Laramie (1868) 

The primary legal justification used by activists is the 1868 Treaty of Fort Laramie. 

Wikipedia +1

• The Provision: The treaty (originally between the U.S. and the Lakota Sioux) included a provision stating that any "retired, abandoned, or out-of-use federal land" was to be returned to the Indigenous peoples who once occupied it.
• The Opportunity: After the Alcatraz penitentiary closed in 1963, the federal government declared the island surplus federal property in 1964. This triggered the legal argument that the island qualified for reclamation by Native American groups. 

OSPI +2

Key Occupations and Claims

Three distinct attempts were made to seize the island and enforce this claim: 

• 1964: A brief, four-hour symbolic occupation led by Belva Cottier and a small group of Sioux members.
• November 9, 1969: A symbolic landing by Richard Oakes and supporters to claim the island.
• 1969–1971 Occupation: The most famous claim lasted 19 months. A coalition called Indians of All Tribes (IAT) occupied the island, issuing the "Alcatraz Proclamation".
• The Offer: They satirically offered to purchase the island for $24 in glass beads and red cloth, mirroring the legendary purchase of Manhattan.
• The Goal: They intended to establish an Indian university, a cultural center, and a museum on the island. 

National Park Service (.gov) +7

Current Status

The U.S. government never officially recognized the claim, and federal marshals removed the final occupiers in June 1971. 

National Park Service (.gov) +1

• Management: In 1972, Alcatraz became part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area managed by the National Park Service.
• Unrecognized Tribes: Some Indigenous groups, such as the Ohlone (the people original to the Bay Area), continue to advocate for recognition and the protection of Indigenous ties to the island, especially in light of recent discussions regarding the site's future use.
• Living Heritage: Today, the island hosts annual sunrise ceremonies on Indigenous Peoples' Day and Thanksgiving (often called "Unthanksgiving Day") to honor the 1969 occupation and the enduring land claim. 

OSPI +3

We scurried up the slope and into the cell block, where an audio guide was offered to each visitor. The guides were narrated by former inmates and prison guards, telling stories about daily life, regulations, visitations and stand-out events such as riots and attempted jail breaks. It was an enriching way to wander between the cells. The cages themselves were in various stages of disrepair, naturally. The last two stops within the cellblock were the library and the visitation area. 

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From this point, most visitors went out into the gardens. The view across the water at San Francisco was spectacular and reminded me of the magnificent vista of New York City from Ellis Island. 

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Later, we returned into the cellblock where the operation of the cell doors was demonstrated. Departure from the island was at 18:30 sharp; all had to board as it was the final shuttle of the day.

Back in the city, I returned to San Remo Hotel on foot. Conveniently, another Trader Joe’s was located close to this hotel, too. Nighttime supplies were so easy these few days in San Francisco. I rested for the rest of the night. Tomorrow I’d have to make my way back to the airport.

And that was the third day.